How Daniel Lee Resurrected Bottega Veneta
Bottega Veneta was founded by Michel Taddei and Renzo Zengiaro in 1966 and was taken over by Kering in 2001. Between 2005 and 2015, the brand's profits doubled, exceeding a billion euros. However, such success couldn't last forever, and by the end of 2015, income began to decline. Experts attributed this to the brand becoming a sluggish giant with an exclusive image, high dependence on the Asian market, insufficient diversification of the assortment, and a lack of fresh creative ideas.

Success returned to the brand after Daniel Lee was appointed as the new creative director following the departure of Thomas Maier in 2018. This wasn't the first time Kering had relied on a young, albeit not widely known, designer with years of experience in various brands. A similar strategy had been successful with Alessandro Michele. Daniel Lee had studied at St. Martin's in London and worked at Maison Margiela, Balenciaga, Donna Karan, and, under the careful guidance of Phoebe Philo, headed the Ready-to-Wear department at Céline for seven years.

While Maier's strategy was to transform Bottega Veneta from a brand specializing in leather into a fashion house with a first-class prêt-à-porter line, Daniel Lee's goal was to renew the brand's image by introducing new creative codes that would appeal even to the younger generation, all while preserving Bottega Veneta's hallmarks: craftsmanship, quality, and elegance.

Lee's approach to his new role was measured. The first thing he did was revisit part of the SS19 collection that the design team had created before his appointment. He made slight changes, but these changes reflected his own aesthetic and creativity. Subsequently, he presented the Pre-FW19 lookbook, and the first Bottega Veneta ad campaign under Lee's direction was released at the end of January, shot by Tyrone Lebon, revealing the designer's new creations in a series of sensual, relaxed, and almost spontaneous shots taken in Ischia.

This collection resonated with fans of the recently orphaned and bereft creative director of Céline. They looked to the future with Lee's creations, capturing a segment of the market of minimalism lovers. The new Bottega Veneta was becoming synonymous with the old Céline. Jess Cartner-Morley, editor of The Guardian, commented, "This Bottega Veneta Pre-FW19 collection had elements specifically aimed at the women who wore Céline when Daniel Lee was working with Phoebe. But surprisingly, this isn't just an attempt to replicate Céline's successes; the excitement around Lee's debut stemmed from the sense that, in addition to beautiful, wearable pieces, he was able to capture the essence of the House of Céline - creating sophisticated clothing for adults, adhering to traditional rules of women's wear but in a more interesting and contemporary way."

Lee's true debut took place in February when the FW19 collection was showcased, causing a sensation. It became evident that the new creative director had rewritten the brand's codes, infusing them with sensuality, energy, and excitement. Blazers, dresses, bags, and shoes featured a unique weaving method iconic to the Venetian brand. Lee demonstrated how tradition, craftsmanship, and minimalism could be modern and even bold.

The response to the new creative director's work was overwhelmingly positive. Net-a-Porter's global buying director, Elizabeth von der Goltz, hailed the brand as key to the new season and capable of steering trends, even among millennials, toward a more grown-up and sophisticated way of dressing. Lee's creations quickly gained popularity on Instagram, and in addition to the brand's main page, there's an account @newbottega, a digital archive of Daniel Lee's products run by Laura Rossi, a fashion student from Polimoda in Florence. Many have drawn parallels with the @oldceline account.

Daniel Lee's appointment as Bottega Veneta's creative director proved to be a visionary choice. A designer with experience under Philo's tutelage and a natural talent had arrived at the right place at the right time. Today, Bottega Veneta generates more profit for Kering than Gucci, its products are considered the most coveted on Farfetch, and almost all of its iconic pieces are sold out. With its luxurious craftsmanship, bold minimalism, sensuality, and modernity, Bottega Veneta maintains its position as an understated brand that's perfect for new fans.
March 05, 2024