New York has just passed a law aimed at providing models under 18 with the same protections as all minor performers. If this law comes fully into effect, the work of young models, especially girls under 18, will become more complex and likely less attractive for many brands and model agencies. Yet for decades, the fashion industry has seen exceptional careers begin well before legal adulthood, shaping the world of modeling in lasting ways.
To better understand the impact of these new rules, one only needs to look at certain iconic careers. Many faces now legendary were discovered very young by a model agency, sometimes in their teens, and quickly dominated international runways. Without their early presence, it is difficult to imagine what contemporary fashion would look like.
Gemma Ward
Gemma Ward, Teen Vogue’s first major star, was scouted at just 14. A year later, she was already walking Sydney Fashion Week and appearing on the cover of Vogue in the “Models of the Moment” issue. Her career perfectly illustrates how modeling can begin very early with the support of the right model agencies.
Karlie Kloss
Karlie Kloss, now omnipresent in major campaigns for Dior, Hermès, or Oscar de la Renta, started at 15. In retrospect, she acknowledged that this age may have been a bit young, highlighting the challenges faced by young models propelled quickly to the top.
Kate Moss
Kate Moss, discovered at 14 at New York’s JFK Airport, was already posing for The Face cover at 16. Naomi Campbell, discovered around 16, became one of the most influential superstars in modeling history. These careers show how model agencies have long relied on youth to shape their icons.
Naomi Campbell
Découverte vers de 16 ans, superstar inégalée dans la mode à ce jour.
Lindsey Wixson
Tanya Dziahileva
A fait ses débuts sur les pistes d’Alexander McQueen et Chanel à l’âge de 14 ans.
Jourdan Dunn
Lily Cole
Daphne Groeneveld
Daphne est devenu modèle pour Givenchy et Giorgio Armani à l'âge de 15 ans.
Chanel Iman
Other examples further illustrate this reality. Lindsey Wixson was the face of Miu Miu at 15, Tanya Dziahileva debuted at Alexander McQueen and Chanel at 14, while Jourdan Dunn walked in 75 shows at just 17. Lily Cole, Daphne Groeneveld, and Chanel Iman all started modeling very young, often supported by international model agencies that structured their rise.
As New York strengthens protection for young models, these careers remind us that early modeling has profoundly influenced fashion. The question remains: how will model agencies now reconcile protection, ethics, and discovering new talents in an industry where youth has long been at the heart of modeling?
