Every April, watch aficionados descend on Geneva for the most prestigious celebration of haute horlogerie: Watches and Wonders. This year, Bulgari made its long-anticipated debut — and stole the spotlight with a dazzling display of contrasts. On one end, the world’s thinnest flying tourbillon. On the other, a bold reimagining of its iconic Serpenti motif. Two radically different pieces, united by one unmistakable signature: Italian elegance fused with Swiss mastery.
Geneva’s Answer to Fashion Week
Just as fashion lovers gather in Paris and Milan, watch collectors make their pilgrimage to Switzerland. Walking through the show floor is like entering a glittering labyrinth — every stand a mini-universe of craftsmanship. I return year after year, and 2025 brought a special surprise: Bulgari’s first official participation.
From the moment I stepped into their space, I was swept into a world that blended Roman architecture with contemporary design. The monumental façade drew on rationalist lines, while the interior — marble-clad and rich in textures — echoed the heart of Italian culture. Bulgari’s debut was not only ambitious; it was unforgettable.
Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon: The Thinnest of Them All
The undisputed star was the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, clocking in at just 1.85 mm — including the case. It is, officially, the world’s thinnest mechanical flying tourbillon watch.
Bulgari’s mastery of ultra-thin engineering is nothing new. Over the past decade, the Octo Finissimo line has claimed ten world records, and the brand has developed thirteen revolutionary movements, including the Bvlgari Piccolissimo, Micro Tourbillon Lady, and Lady Solo Tempo. But this model pushes the envelope further.
With the movement (BVL 180) ticking at 4 Hz and offering a 42-hour power reserve, the design required a complete rethinking of traditional watchmaking. Components were cleverly rearranged to fit the razor-thin profile without compromising durability. The baseplate is crafted from tungsten carbide, and the case from micro-sandblasted titanium. Even the bracelet — just 1.5 mm thick — completes the illusion of wearing nothing at all.
Eight patents were filed in the making of this piece. It’s an engineering marvel that leaves even seasoned watch experts in awe.
Serpenti Aeterna: A Rebirth of a Legend
On the other end of the spectrum lies the Serpenti Aeterna, a futuristic reinterpretation of Bulgari’s legendary snake symbol, first introduced in 1948. Stripped of its traditional eyes and scales, the new design embraces a clean, geometric flow that coils effortlessly around the wrist.
In rose gold, the piece glimmers with a refined band of diamonds. In white gold, the fully pavé-set version sparkles with such intensity, it resembles a sculptural jewel destined for a museum display. This evolution took years of collaboration between watchmakers and jewellers to perfect — delivering beauty without compromising comfort.
The result is not just a timepiece, but an objet d’art, steeped in heritage and redefined through innovation.
25 Years of Innovation Under LVMH
Large infopanels at the exhibit traced Bulgari’s journey from jewellery house to record-breaking watchmaker. It’s a transformation few predicted — but under LVMH’s umbrella, the brand has carved out its place in the upper echelons of haute horlogerie. CEO Jean-Christophe Babin summed it up perfectly: “We are constantly exploring uncharted territories, pushing the limits of design and craftsmanship — especially in the Serpenti segment.”
A Brand That Shifts Perspectives
As I exited the pavilion, the dual impressions lingered. On one wrist, the lightness of the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon; on the other, the sculptural glamour of the Serpenti Aeterna. Two extremes — technical minimalism and embellished opulence — yet both unmistakably Bulgari.
Their debut at Watches & Wonders isn’t just a symbolic milestone; it’s a powerful statement. After 25 years of relentless innovation, Bulgari has proven it belongs on the global stage of fine watchmaking. Whether you're drawn to groundbreaking thinness or mesmerized by the timeless allure of a serpent, Bulgari delivers both — with confidence, clarity, and undeniable charm.
