John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Giambattista Valli, and Calvin Klein have all referenced cult horror films in their collections.
Horror films are not exactly mainstream — fear is hardly something we seek in our everyday lives. And perhaps that is precisely why they have become such a powerful source of inspiration for designers. They find beauty in danger, darkness, and morbidity — in emotions we tend to suppress, yet undeniably carry within us.
Fashion + Film = A Great Love Story
Horror possesses a unique ability to materialize emotions we otherwise dare not name or imagine. This is why so many designers pay tribute to film directors who are able to personify our fears — often in ways that ultimately reveal their beauty.
As Halloween approaches, it’s worth revisiting a few iconic films that have left a lasting mark not only on cinema, but also on the visual language of fashion houses that translated these dark narratives into wearable art — and even everyday uniforms.
The Silence of the Lambs (1991)
Gareth Pugh, Giambattista Valli
Anthony Hopkins’ Hannibal Lecter — calm, intelligent, yet deadly — became an unlikely fashion muse. His iconic leather muzzle inspired British designer Gareth Pugh, who transformed it into a metal mask paired with dark burgundy lips. Giambattista Valli, meanwhile, brought the film’s poster imagery to life by placing a moth over a model’s mouth — a silent symbol of obsession. This year, Allina Liu echoed the same motif by applying orchids to models’ lips.
The Shining (1980)
Prada, Gucci
The eerie symmetry of the Overlook Hotel has been etched into the collective memory of designers. Prada drew inspiration from a detail on little Danny’s sweater, while Jun Takahashi of Undercover reimagined the iconic twins in blue dresses with lace collars. In 2013, American brand The Blonds even transformed the famous axe-through-the-door scene into a dress print. Alessandro Michele later dedicated an entire Gucci campaign to Stanley Kubrick shortly before his departure from the house.
Rosemary’s Baby (1968)
Calvin Klein, Prada, Altuzarra
Mia Farrow’s ethereal beauty became a symbol of innocence on the edge of despair. Her short haircut and pastel 1960s wardrobe inspired Calvin Klein and Prada, who sent “Rosemary-like” figures down the runway — pale, fragile, dressed in soft blue tones, their gaze fixed on the unknown.
Carrie (1976)
Rodarte, Calvin Klein, Dior
The prom queen remains one of the most visually referenced heroines in fashion history. Not only because of the unforgettable final scene, but also due to the character’s psychological transformation. Rodarte translated the story into an ethereal gown of white and blood-red tulle. Calvin Klein took a more literal approach in 2018, presenting a model in a long red dress as a living symbol of destruction and revenge. And, of course, John Galliano’s red haute couture collection for Dior in 2006 remains unforgettable.
The Birds (1963)
Alexander McQueen, John Galliano
Tippi Hedren surrounded by a swarm of birds remains a powerful visual more than sixty years later. Alexander McQueen revisited the film repeatedly — once through feather-covered dresses, another time through sharply tailored looks paired with pearl necklaces, referencing Hitchcock’s cool blonde. Bird shadows later appeared on Rochas coats and in John Galliano’s theatrical visuals.
Hellraiser (1987–2018)
Thom Browne, Junya Watanabe
Pinhead — a demon with nails embedded in his head — is an unlikely fashion icon, yet he has become a symbol of fascination with the fine line between beauty and repulsion. Supreme dedicated an entire collection to him, while Thom Browne and Junya Watanabe covered models in spike-studded fabrics. Gareth Pugh built an entire collection around this imagery in 2018, and the character also appeared in Mark Mitankovski’s work.
Bride of Frankenstein (1935)
Thom Browne, Haider Ackermann, GORM
Classic 1930s elegance, a white dress, and an iconic hairstyle streaked with silver. Chanel recalled her spirit in its 2010 haute couture show, while Dior revived her image the same year in an ethereal white gown. Thom Browne later transformed her silhouette into avant-garde shapes with elongated gloves. Independent label GORM paid tribute with an upcycled asymmetrical dress, and Bella Hadid became Haider Ackermann’s “dark bride” for his FW 2020/21 show.
Dracula (1992)
Robert Wun, Area
The iconic costumes designed by Oscar-winning designer Eiko Ishioka became legendary. Alexander McQueen paid homage to them multiple times through lace gowns, black hats, and blood-red cloaks, while John Galliano brought the atmosphere of Eastern European legends to the runway in 2009.
