The long speculation is over – another fashion house has found its new creative director. One down, one to go.

Demna Gvasalia's move from Balenciaga to Gucci came as a shock to many (if not all). The Georgian designer revived a long-forgotten brand that had been languishing in the shadows of mediocrity for years.

Demna not only got it back on its feet and revived its haute couture line, but also restored its status as an avant-garde "trendsetter," to such an extent that many wondered if it was a modern social experiment. IKEA bags, doormat skirts, and gopnik tracksuits became his long-standing modus operandi, which he also partially brought into haute couture.

Piccioli's selection was therefore another shock for many – a pragmatic romantic who brings a charge of positive emotions to every (aesthetically pleasing and eye-catching) collection is the complete opposite of his predecessor. His visual language has always respected silhouette, proportion, and craftsmanship. He also always knew how to deliver "drama" in his own style. And it is precisely these aspects that will play a key role for the brand in haute couture, to which the house returned in 2021 after a long hiatus.

However, the corporate subtext of these carefully thought-out moves should not be underestimated – long gone are the days when a creative director worked under the roof of a fashion house until his death (or absolute collapse). Today, creative directors almost always stay with a house for a decade. And then comes the "rebranding" – Michele at Gucci, Galliano at Maison Margiela, Anderson at Loewe (11 years) and now there are even rumors that Maria Grazia Chiuri will "celebrate" her decade at Dior next year.

It's simply a matter of changing strategy, appealing to a new group, and changing before the brand loses its relevance.

Although there is no doubt that Piccioli will be able to creatively strengthen the house and revive the founder's legacy, it is still a little sad to see the end of an era at the house.

Although Demna's aesthetic was not to everyone's taste, it introduced a new type of decadence and avant-garde that significantly changed the aesthetics of the fashion world.

The question is whether, after such a radical step, the brand will completely lose its identity, which it built on fashion postmodernism in a provocative, cyber-goth style. Piccioli, the poet, will be able to revive Cristobal Balenciaga's historical triumphs, but he may not be able to maintain the brand's status as a cultural phenomenon that still resonates with the brand's clients and fans.

His first collection for Balenciaga will be presented during Paris Fashion Week next spring, where he will join a number of other designers making their debuts, including Matthieu Blazy at Chanel and Duran