At first, it seemed like a perfect match. When LVMH bought the Marc Jacobs brand in 1997, it was a risky but visionary move. Bringing a New York rebel into the Paris empire? What a dream! At the time, Jacobs was creative director at Louis Vuitton and was also building his own brand, which appealed to a young, trend-hungry generation. Today, twenty-eight years later, however, the brand appears on the list of those that LVMH wants to offload. The financial results of the group, which reported a 15% drop in sales in the first half of 2025, call for a reorganization. And that often means only one thing: the sale of "smaller" brands.

French purge

Marc Jacobs is thus heading in the same direction as Off-White, which LVMH sold to Bluestar Alliance, and Stella McCartney, which bought back its brand.

There is speculation that among the interested parties are names such as Authentic Brands Group (owner of Reebok and Hervé Léger), WHP Global, and Bluestar Alliance, which in recent years has been buying up brands with commercial potential and transforming them into a profitable portfolio. Unlike Stella McCartney, however, Jacobs has not expressed interest in buying back the brand. The fate of the brand will therefore be decided by others. First and foremost, Bernard Arnault, who is clearly reevaluating what is still worth keeping in his empire.

The fact that Marc Jacobs is now returning to the media spotlight adds a strange irony to the whole story. At this year's Venice Film Festival, Sofia Coppola will premiere her long-awaited documentary about his life. The film promises an intimate portrait of the fashion visionary, but it will also reflect on a time when his name may appear for the last time under the brand he built himself. In contrast to brands such as Louis Vuitton and Dior, which target an ultra-luxury clientele, Marc Jacobs continues to appeal to a younger audience. And that may be the problem today. The crisis is affecting the entire fashion sector, so customer loyalty and profit margins are playing a crucial role. Emotions are being pushed aside.

What will happen to the brand that once defined the beginning of the millennium? If it is sold, Marc Jacobs will likely return to American ownership, perhaps with a new vision and a different direction. However, LVMH will have to come to terms with the fact that it is losing more than just a name. It is losing a piece of cultural DNA that embodied courage, rebellion, and New York's unbridled spirit. And therein lies the dilemma. Fashion is changing faster than ever before, and with it, the very value of brands. The question is no longer what it means to be a fashion visionary. The question is who can still afford to be one today.