A Standing Ovation for Haider Ackermann

All eyes were on Haider Ackermann, making his debut as Creative Director of Tom Ford following the designer’s departure after the brand’s sale. Ackermann delivered a masterclass in restraint and allure, capturing the very essence of Tom Ford’s legacy — refined elegance and cool sensuality, echoing the stylized universe of Gattaca.

The show paid homage to Ford’s past at Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, “bringing it all back home” through Halstonian caftans, liquid silks, and razor-sharp tailoring. A predominantly monochrome palette was elevated by Ford's signature bursts of color — Bowie blue, yellow, emerald, and a show-stealing red leather coat. Anna Wintour’s standing ovation said it all: Ackermann didn’t imitate Ford; he translated him, seducing the audience with substance, not spectacle.

Sarah Burton’s Quiet Reset at Givenchy

In a twist of poetic destiny, Sarah Burton — once Alexander McQueen’s right hand — took the reins at Givenchy, the very house that gave McQueen his early break. But her debut was more whisper than roar. Rather than tap into the Audrey Hepburn lore, Burton reached further back, using Hubert de Givenchy’s 1952 debut as a starting point.

Clean lines, restrained silhouettes, and a palette dominated by black defined the collection. It was elegant, yes, but arguably too safe. In a time when minimalism is being reinterpreted across the board, Burton’s approach lacked the edge needed to capture a younger audience. While her tulle dresses and mesh logo tops are likely to be fast-fashion knockoff favorites, she’ll need more daring to truly win over Gen Z — croissants and nostalgia aren’t enough.

Julian Klausner: A Theatrical Triumph at Dries Van Noten

One of the week’s true revelations came from Julian Klausner, debuting as Creative Director at Dries Van Noten following the founder’s retirement. A long-time collaborator within the house, Klausner embraced the spirit of theatricality and drama that defined Van Noten’s vision — but with a fresh, youthful boldness.

He sidestepped archival nostalgia and instead leaned into grand proportions, opulent textures, and daring color pairings. The result? Everyday couture with a stage-ready flair. This wasn’t just a continuation of a legacy — it was a confident evolution.

Chloé’s Vintage Revival

Chloé took audiences on a time-traveling journey to the boho era of the ‘60s and ‘70s, conjuring the spirit of Portobello Road with a collection that felt lovingly assembled from vintage treasures. Think Victorian coats, heirloom furs, nightgown-esque maxi dresses, and slouchy, low-rise leather pants. It was romantic, nostalgic, and, for millennial vintage-lovers, irresistible.

No, it wasn’t revolutionary. But it was authentic — a sustainable, soulful nod to fashion’s cyclical nature. In an industry weary of greenwashing, this felt like a genuine return to roots rather than trend-driven tokenism.

Dior’s Boldest Moment Yet

Maria Grazia Chiuri, often criticized for her overly commercial and repetitive designs, delivered a triumphant reset at Dior. Inspired by Virginia Woolf’s Orlando, the collection fused historic references with modern poise. Edwardian jabots, Renaissance doublets, and armor-like details walked the line between costume and couture — but always with purpose.

What set this collection apart was Chiuri’s fearless integration of Dior’s legacy. From Galliano’s saddle bag to Ferré’s sharp white shirts and even Monsieur Dior’s iconic “New Look,” she reinterpreted the house’s greatest hits through her own, refined lens. The result was a dramatic, layered, and coherent narrative — arguably her strongest and most sophisticated collection to date.

In Summary: A Week of Turning Points

This season in Paris didn’t just deliver fashion — it delivered transformation. Some creative directors looked backward to move forward, while others stepped boldly into new chapters. Between Ackermann’s precision, Klausner’s drama, Burton’s introspection, and Chiuri’s revival, the industry witnessed both reinvention and reaffirmation.

And if this week was any indication, Paris Fashion Week has never felt more alive — or more uncertain in the best possible way.