The fashion merry-go-round is spinning again. And among the hottest names right now is an American designer with Mexican roots whose work is changing the rules of men's fashion.
After several months of silence, the fashion world is waking up again—and in a big way. Demna's return to Gucci, Maria Grazia Chiuri's departure from Dior, and Francesco Rissa's unexpected farewell to Marni. And now? Another big name is in the fashion world's sights: Fendi. According to WWD magazine, preliminary talks are reportedly underway with Willy Chavarria, a designer whose work combines queer aesthetics, Latino roots, and a radically contemporary view of masculinity.
A radical vision for the Roman fashion house?
Willy Chavarria is not a name that the fashion industry would associate with the traditional concept of luxury. His shows often take the form of emotionally charged manifestos, staged in churches and community centers with a cast that defies conventional standards of beauty. His January collection, presented in Paris on the occasion of the brand's tenth anniversary, was met with enthusiastic reactions, and according to behind-the-scenes sources, it was then that his name was first unofficially linked to Fendi.
Since Kim Jones left his post as creative director of Fendi's women's collections last fall, the Roman fashion house has been looking for a new vision. Names such as John Galliano, Pierpaolo Piccioli, Maria Grazia Chiuri, and Francesco Risso have appeared in the internal selection. This makes it all the more surprising that Chavarria, an author with such strong political views and a distinctly personal style, is among the potential candidates. If an agreement is reached, it would be one of the most radical decisions made by LVMH in the last decade.
A new century, a new vision
While negotiations continue, Silvia Venturini Fendi remains at the helm of the men's collections and accessories. At Milan Fashion Week in September, she will also present another co-ed collection, which is intended to be a transitional moment before the brand's 100th anniversary celebrations. Chavarria remains in the running as a possible candidate, but the only thing that cannot be disputed at this point is that Fendi is entering a new era.
