The rest of the fashion world may just be talking about sustainability. Chanel is actually doing something about it. But what exactly are its plans, and how do they differ from classic greenwashing?
Cambon Street has always meant more than just an address. It has been a symbol of luxury, creativity, and French elegance. Now Chanel is adding another meaning to it: responsibility. With its face increasingly turned toward the planet and its eyes on declining sales and tense trade relations with the US, the brand is launching the Nevold project. The acronym for "never old" stands not only for recycling and reusing textiles, but also for a new pillar in the brand's approach to sustainability.
From unsellable stock to a luxurious comeback
Nevold aims to recycle textile scraps, unsold items, and unused materials, especially rare ones such as silk, cashmere, and leather.
To this end, Chanel has embarked on strategic investments, including acquisitions of companies specializing in waste management and recycling. Although some experts still point to the risk of so-called greenwashing, in this case, it seems that the brand is aiming higher than mere PR. It is addressing its own dependence on endangered raw materials and the limitations of existing resources. According to Bruno Pavlovsky, president of Chanel's fashion division, this is not a one-off fad, but a fundamental strategy for the future. "We want to still be around in ten or twenty years. That's why we have to think differently. Differently about materials, differently about resources," said Pavlovsky.
A new wave of responsibility in the world of luxury
Chanel is not the only player in the luxury sector to realize that unsustainability is no longer fashionable. LVMH is increasing its budget for recycling innovations to €300,000 this year, and the Kering group is investing in startups and platforms such as ReValorem and Vestiaire Collective. In addition, the European Union is planning to significantly tighten legislation on textile waste, forcing brands to take action rather than just talk. However, Nevold has ambitions to go further than fashion. Chanel plans to involve segments such as sports and hospitality. Anywhere where waste is generated that deserves a second life. However, it remains to be seen whether this initiative can change a system that has so far been based on overproduction and exclusivity. As Pavlovsky said: "It's not big business. Not yet. But I believe it will be soon."
