New York Fashion Week took place from September 8 to 12.
The schedule included 91 shows and presentations.
Read about the most interesting events in this article.
Giant ruffles, asymmetric lapels and marabou trim by Christian Siriano.
“Project Runway" show winner and Hollywood’s favourite, Christian Siriano’s fashion show took place in Gotham Hall, the former Greenwich Savings Bank. The designer created clothes for a variety of women with different looks, figures and requests. While working on this collection, the designer looked at old family photos, and the powerful orange color he used was an homage to his Italian grandmother, the muse of the season according to American Vogue. The designer also introduced '30s silhouettes, suits with asymmetrical lapels, giant ruffles and marabou trim on dresses.
Simplified minimalism, an Aozai suit and rose embroidery by Peter Do.
This Fashion Week featured the first runway collection by Phoebe Philo, apprentice of Peter Do, one of the most anticipated NYFW shows. The designer compared preparing for this collection to making traditional soup with his father as a teenager. Both father and son were Vietnamese immigrants in Philadelphia, and making traditional soup was a weekend activity. Although Do was a minimalist from the beginning, while analyzing his earlier work with a more experienced eye, he decided to cut back and remove the excess. Peter Do's signature four-piece suit was redesigned with a lighter pleated skirt than in previous seasons because customers noted that there was too much fabric around the waist.
Just like Siriano, Do worked with his family's heritage. Looking through photos of his grandmother's church clothes led him to do research traditional Vietnamese Aozai suits. To this suit, he then added lapels and button-downs for a coat with buttons on the side. An early shot of his mother and father holding a rose, inspired the rich embroidery on the final pieces. At the finale of the fashion show Peter Do came out with his entire team for a bow.
Diving, handmade leis and the nature of the island of Kauai by Proenza Schouler.
Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez's new collection was inspired by the Hawaiian island of Kauai, which Proenza Schouler's creative directors call their "sanctuary." This collection reflects the iridescent atmosphere of the island: motifs of diving and surfing with nature's color palette and Maui's handmade leis. This is one of our favorite collections: jacquard suits in bright shades of coral or orange. Tight suits with biker shorts with a wavy fringe a few inches below the hem. As well as fringe skirts on long, tight knit dresses.
Gigi Hadid and Ella Emhoff, who’s the stepdaughter of American Vice President Kamala Harris walked the runway.
Minimalism, sailor hats and spikelet print by Bevza
We’ve talked about the show of Ukrainian designer Svetlana Bevza right after the show ended. The show was called "We're all in the same boat”. The collection was devoted to an investigation of the concept of copying and replicating in the fashion industry - in the new clothes the designer copies herself. Another theme of the show was overproduction. "We will all, in one way or another, face the consequences of overproduction. We are all in the same boat," says Svetlana. The collection had many references to the ocean - sailor hats, seashell bags and a marine color palette. One of the favorite symbols of Ukraine for the designer is a spikelet - in the Bevza SS22 collection it is presented in the form of bright prints.
Baby clothes, rattlesnakes and the most inclusive castings by Moschino.
Jeremy Scott organized yet another striking fashion show, as always. Bryant Park was chosen as the location, to reminisce the first years of the designer's life in New York. The inspiration for the new collection was the image of actress Fran Drescher and her heroine Nanny Fran Fine from the popular 90's series "Nanny". "Fran Drescher wore so many Franco Moschino, the iconic little suits that were a major trademark of the brand at the time," Scott recalls. This collection, too, is full of similar costumes, as well as dresses decorated with toys and rattlesnakes: elephants, giraffes and seals that paddle around in quilted satin and tweed. The show featured the debut of 19-year-old transgender model with cerebral palsy, Aaron Philip.
Ball gowns, monochrome and bracelets by Carolina Herrera.
Carolina Herrera marked the brand's 40th anniversary with a much-anticipated live show. Designer Wes Gordon held it at Salon 94, which resembled a 100-year-old ballroom and featured equally festive outfits. Gordon cleverly combined the signature mark of brand founder Carolina Herrera and a playful touch of his own style. The first designs can be seen in the puffed black and white dresses and the dress with a puffed skirt and voluminous sleeves made of red silk taffeta. The second is in cocktail dresses with bare hips, reimagined tuxedos in the form of shirts with expressive sleeves and cropped pants with a high waist, as well as checked suits and bracelets in the spirit of our time. "Another dress that sticks in the mind was a combination of bright pink, red and navy taffeta, a surprisingly pleasing color combination that Carolina Herrera herself might approve of," VOGUE.COM sums up the show.
Checkered pants, oversized shirts and satin bomber by Willy Chavarria.
Willy Chavarria (the designer who headed the Calvin Klein's menswear line this February) presented the menswear collection of his eponymous brand at NYFW. He opened the show with a bare-chested model wearing very wide, cinched high-waisted chinos with satin boxers underneath. "I wanted it to feel like couture, to feel royal," Willie explained backstage. The show was held at Astor Place Hairstylists, an iconic 74-year-old underground New York City barbershop. After the first four bold outfits, the runway was filled with unusual, modern-inspired clothes: red leather jackets and loose-fitting bell-bottoms, see-through organza shirts paired with baseball caps, oversized collar shirts, satin bomber jackets, baggy jeans, big-buckle belts and cowboy hats. Keep a close eye on the sensual color palette and combinations of shades in the collection.
Ancient Greek sculptures, riotous blooms and layered suits by Thom Browne
This season, Thom Browne moved his show to New York from Paris in order to support the opening of "In America: A Lexicon of Fashion" at the Anna Wintour Institute of Costume, curated by his partner Andrew Bolton.
Brown's Spring/Summer 2022 men's and women's collection show can safely be called the most beautiful, theatrical and powerful show of this Fashion Week.
The catwalk turned into a beautiful garden, where the action unfolded, featuring animated flowers and trees, garden caretakers in strict three-piece suits of various combinations, ancient Greek sculptures dressed in eye catching dresses, tops and skirts. The front row was lined up with artists, writers and athletes, from tik-toker Lil Huddy to basketball player Russell Westbrook to playwright Jeremy O. Harris, actor Dan Levy and Brown's fall 2021 star athlete Lindsey Vonn. In all, there were about 200 pieces of clothing on the runway, each of which, according to VOGUE.COM, was a love letter to American fashion.
Shell corsets, mushroom prints and beaded fringe by Rodarte
Lightness and movement filled this spring Rodarte show. The most iconic collection, of course, were the dresses decorated with mushrooms, which the mother of the designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy, a trained artist, painted by hand and dedicated to the father of the creative editors - botanist who specializes in mushrooms. In addition to these amazing pieces, there is as always much to see and admire in it - corsets-shells on combo dresses, a beaded fringe completely covering the floor dressed in different colors, lace block and the final appearance of barefoot models in exquisitely simple gowns in shades of sunset sky. American Vogue subtly states
"In the minds of the Mullivi sisters, it was a gesture that turns the models into an artist's palette to celebrate the pristine beauty of the earth,”
Tom Ford's sequins, crystals, satin and velvet.
The show of iconic Tom Ford ended New York Fashion Week, where sportswear once again came to the forefront - though in a dressy version. "Photogenic clothing today by its very nature means that it's not at all shapely... My clothes this season are simple in cut, but not in appearance," says American favorite Tom Ford of his spring/summer collection, noting the fact that Los Angeles has changed him and Instagram has changed everyone. Then he quotes the legendary Diane Vreeland: "I know it's a lot, but is it enough?" And he takes the runway (the show was held at the David Koch Theater at Lincoln Center) with models dressed in lavishly embellished sequinned T-shirts, basketball shorts or sweatpants, over-size satin jackets in fuchsia, orange, acid green and blue. Denim jackets encrusted with gilded chains were also featured including leather block, leopard print, lots of gold necklaces, shirts with knotted belly buttons and corset blouses.