Although the fashion season is not over yet and the most anticipated shows are still ahead of us in Paris, there is already a lot worth paying attention to. We are currently experiencing an unprecedented period and perhaps the most significant fashion season of our time, which will outline the direction fashion is taking. It's not so much about watching new talent as it is about defining established brands in a new direction. New themes of meaning and form of elegance are emerging, minimalism vs. maximalism, classicism and experimentation, between emotion and pure form. Which collections impressed me the most?

New York

In general, it plays it safe and focuses on a more commercial look, and there are no defining, tone-setting brands, but this year I was impressed by the Tory Burch collection, which, despite obvious references to other brands, moved to a higher level, was modern (with its low-waisted skirts) and very relevant. I was also impressed by the Coach collection, which knows how to appeal to Generation Z, and this year's line seemed to be the most successful in recent years.

London

London is always more about theatricality, edginess, and romance. As every season, this year the audience was eager to see where Burberry, still searching for its new identity under the leadership of Daniel Lee, would go. But this time, London seemed to know what it wanted to say. It built its vision on the local music scene, indie bands, and the aesthetics of music festivals. The much-discussed rising star Dilara Findikoglu offered a show full of "angry" women, activism, drama, fantasy heroines, and spectacular lacing and corsets.

Milan

Things are heating up. This year, Italian soil has seen more exciting fashion moments and expectations. There has also been greater dynamism between the purist and minimalist path and the advocates of the slogan "more is more."

Right from the start, Simone Belloti presented his debut show for the Jil Sander brand, as if he had taken the helm of the pure design camp. He "cleansed" his vision of any encrustations and decor from recent years and seemed to bring the brand back to its factory settings. No emotions, no eroticism, just pure artistry, geometry, and purism.

I cannot fail to mention Prada, whose aura is powerful. The brand's strength lies in its ability to constantly push the boundaries of fashion. In this year's collection, Prada remains faithful to the concept of unpredictable combinations of different elements, no longer perfect chaos, but rather a visually pleasing and playful impression. Prada knows how to work with colors, tension, dynamics, and silhouettes.

Demna also presented his first highly anticipated collection for Gucci in the presence of many celebrities and personalities. Great marketing, but the collection itself was perhaps not as shocking as expected from the designer who "blew up" Balenciaga.

I want to mention Etro, for the opposite maximalist pole. Marco Vincenzi is doing a great job here. Fullness, ethnic patterns, and boho are fantastically constructed here. A true "Primavera."

And then there was the first Versace collection under the leadership of Dario Vitale, which aroused the most passionate reactions and discussions. I have always associated Versace with slightly glittery glamour, the nineties, and sex appeal. However, the brand's new direction echoes the earlier decades of Gianni Versace himself. This debut was truly one of the freshest and most exciting moments of Italian Fashion Week. Many compared the experience to Alessandro Michele's first collection for Gucci – and I agree. Vitale has embarked on a path of more emotionally intense aesthetics that appeals to a new generation, moving away from traditional glamour. The collection had boldness, sex, the present and the past, energy and a clear opinion. Fashion insiders have embraced it with enthusiasm, appreciating its courage and visual power, while the wider public does not understand it and has reacted with mixed, critical, and controversial responses. For me, it is a bold redefinition of Versace, which is definitely not for everyone, with the aim of breaking the brand's former myth and restoring its erotic energy.

At the opposite end of the spectrum of Italian elegance is the new Bottega Veneta, taken over by Louise Trotter. Her clear vision, emphasis on craftsmanship, and ability to build on where the bran

d is right now came across as confident. The collection was a safe bet – solid, continuous, and evolutionary, rather than revolutionary, as we were used to with Daniel Lee or Mattieu Blazy, who brought unforgettable moments. The designer is a great choice for the brand: her collections may offer less extreme clothing, more durability, balance, and wearability.

But the exciting fashion journey does not end there – the next chapter will take place in Paris, where the key moments of this season are expected, culminating this year's seismic shifts in the fashion world.