Stella McCartney, Burberry, and Ahluwalia are the stars of a presentation by the BFC in favor of sustainability.

Stella McCartney stars in a BFC showcase advocating sustainability
major brands that are also working to reduce their environmental impact.

The fashion industry has intensified its climate goals as part of the United Nations Fashion Charter, with brands pledging to halve their greenhouse gas emissions by 2030. However, it's clear that reducing the sector's impact on the planet remains a major challenge, requiring both innovation and collaboration.

These were the key themes of a Great campaign X British Fashion Council (BFC) showcase held during Cop26 in Glasgow, which highlighted the work of brands such as Stella McCartney, Burberry, and Ahluwalia, alongside innovators who could help the industry move towards a more circular model. "It's important that the fashion industry had a much stronger voice at this Cop," said Caroline Rush, CEO of the BFC, to Vogue. "We know, thanks to the designers and companies represented here, that incredible work is being done in the UK, but there is still much to do. [It's about] connecting the dots and empowering creativity and innovation to help us achieve our emission reduction goals."

As part of the Future Of Fashion installation, visited by Prince Charles last week, McCartney showcased the next-generation materials she champions, from Mylo leather made from mushroom roots (the first bag made from this material was featured in her Spring/Summer 2022 collection) to Evrnu, a fiber made from used clothing and entirely recyclable.

Priya Ahluwalia, who recently launched Circulate with Microsoft, an app that helps find used clothing that can be recycled, also participated in the event. "I think Circulate is a starting point for what I believe is a truly innovative sourcing tool," said the designer. "And it's a great way to build a community but also enable people to feel like they're doing something positive."

For Ms. Ahluwalia, the showcase was an opportunity to learn from other designers and innovators who participated. "There are all these different viewpoints, and I think it serves to test my own thought process. Sustainability is not an absolute; it's about learning," she added.

The importance of sharing knowledge was also emphasized by Amy Powney of Mother of Pearl, who premiered her new documentary Fashion Reimagined, which follows her mission to ensure full traceability of her supply chain. Phoebe English, on the other hand, shared her research on regenerative agriculture as part of the showcase. "I wanted to be here today because one of our main goals in the studio with our research is not necessarily to sell clothes, but to help convey information and knowledge across the industry as a whole," explained English.

While English, Ahluwalia, and Powney represent independent designers who are currently champions of sustainability in the UK - alongside Bethany Williams and Helen Kirkum, who were also present - Burberry represented the major brands that are also working to reduce their environmental impact. The British fashion house has set the ambitious goal of becoming climate positive by 2040 (meaning it would remove more CO2 from the atmosphere than it emits), and it launched its new biodiversity strategy last week.

It is the major brands that will need to undergo the most radical transformation for fashion to truly reduce its environmental impact - and this will likely require support from policymakers. The showcase was organized by the UK government's Great campaign, which promotes British talent and businesses worldwide, in partnership with the BFC, and featured video messages from Boris Johnson and Prince Charles, making it clear that fashion is officially at the center of broader climate policy.

"People have finally become aware of the impact of the fashion industry," concludes Ms. Rush. "But the need for collective action is really important."