A few years ago, in the midst of the pandemic, when the fashion world was dreaming of a slower and more sustainable pace, the see-now-buy-now format was brought to the table by fashion strategists. In reality, however, this is nothing new. Burberry tried it back in 2016, while giants such as Giorgio Armani and Dolce & Gabbana rejected it as a premature experiment. Gradually, however, the model began to return to the game: Jacquemus, Balenciaga under Demna, and, to some extent, Zegna showed that with a precise plan, the format has potential. Now, according to MF Fashion, Gucci, under Demna's leadership, plans to use his debut for a big comeback of see-now-buy-now. The collection could be available immediately after the show in 50 boutiques around the world and online. The goal is to eliminate unnecessary months of waiting and capture the audience's enthusiasm at its peak.

Debts are growing, and the pressure on Gucci is enormous

Gucci is not experimenting just for the sake of creativity, but primarily out of necessity. The brand's sales had already slowed down before Alessandro Michele's resignation, and Sabato De Sarno's new restart has encountered complications in production cycles. Added to this are the problems of the entire Kering conglomerate, which has accumulated debts of up to €10.5 billion due to extensive acquisitions – an amount comparable to the public debt of some smaller European countries. Investments in the CAA agency, Creed, real estate, and Hollywood have weighed heavily on the balance sheet, and Gucci now plays a much more important role in the group than ever before. For a long time, its turnover accounted for almost half of Kering's total sales. The success of Demna's debut will therefore not only be a fashion victory, but potentially also the salvation of the entire giant.

See-now-buy-now: a genius shortcut or logistical chaos?

Despite its marketing appeal, the see-now-buy-now format has a number of pitfalls. Logistically, it is an extremely complex operation: production, distribution, inventory, marketing – everything has to work perfectly according to a precisely timed schedule. It is this complexity that has led many brands to abandon the model after a few attempts.

Furthermore, a study by Launchmetrics shows that traditional fashion weeks still generate significantly higher media coverage. During fashion week, EMV (earned media value) increases by up to 180%, while content related to see-now-buy-now has only a marginal impact. For example, at Mugler, it generated only 1% of media value. The option applied by Tommy Hilfiger, i.e., the continuous launch of limited collections in connection with major events such as Formula 1 or global sports tournaments, has been more successful so far. The key is therefore clear: perfect timing, connection with cultural moments, and well-thought-out marketing.

If Gucci really does go for see-now-buy-now for Demna's debut, it will be one of the most watched experiments in recent years. But there is more at stake than just one season. Success or failure will determine the future direction not only of the brand itself, but perhaps of the entire luxury market.